The Lapel: Notch, Peak, and Shawl, and Which One Suits Your Build

You are choosing a suit and the tailor asks which lapel you want. The answer depends on your shoulders, not on the fashion of the month.

The lapel is the shape of the jacket's opening, and there are three kinds that matter: notch, peak, and shawl. Notch is the default and suits almost everyone. Peak adds width to the shoulders. Shawl belongs with black tie. The right one depends on your build and on where you are wearing the jacket.

The three shapes, and what each one does

Every jacket lapel is one of three shapes, and the shape does more than decorate the front. The notch lapel is the one you see most often: the lapel meets the collar at a visible notch, at an angle of roughly 75 to 90 degrees, and the line of the opening is balanced and neutral. It is the default for a reason. It suits almost every build, it works for business and for weddings, and it never looks wrong.

The peak lapel points upward, toward the shoulders, and the points draw the eye outward. That is why it is common on double-breasted jackets and on suits for men with narrow shoulders. The peak adds width where the shoulders need it, and it adds formality too. A peak lapel on a single-breasted suit is a statement. It says the wearer knows what the lapel does and chose it on purpose.

The shawl lapel has no notch at all. It is a continuous curve from the collar to the button, and it belongs with black tie. A shawl lapel on a dinner jacket is correct. A shawl lapel on a business suit is not, because the shawl signals evening wear and the suit signals the office, and the two signals do not mix.

Width is a proportion, not a preference

Lapel width is measured at the widest point, and the widths fall into three bands. Slim lapels are 2 to 2.5 inches wide. Regular lapels are 2.75 to 3.25 inches. Wide lapels are 3.5 inches or more. The width should match the proportions of the wearer and the width of the tie, because the lapel and the tie sit next to each other and the eye compares them.

The chest measurement is the simplest guide. A chest under 38 inches suits a slim lapel, because a wide lapel on a narrow chest overwhelms the frame. A chest from 38 to 44 inches suits a regular lapel, which is why regular is the most common width. A chest over 44 inches suits a wide lapel, because a slim lapel on a broad chest looks like a strip of ribbon. These are starting points, not rules, and the tailor's eye matters more than the tape. A man with a 40-inch chest and very narrow shoulders may need a wider lapel than the number suggests, and a man with a 44-inch chest and a long neck may need a narrower one.

The fashion cycle moves lapel widths up and down, and the widths in the shops right now are not the widths that suit you. A slim lapel was fashionable a decade ago, a wide lapel is fashionable now, and both will be out of fashion again. The width that suits your chest does not change with the cycle.

How the lapel changes the silhouette

The lapel is the largest uninterrupted shape on the front of the jacket, and it sets the silhouette. A notch lapel with a low gorge, the point where the lapel meets the collar, makes the chest look longer and the shoulders look narrower. A notch lapel with a high gorge does the opposite. The gorge height is a small detail that changes the whole look, and it is one of the things a good tailor adjusts without being asked.

The peak lapel changes the silhouette more directly. The upward points lengthen the line of the shoulder and make the chest look broader, which is why it is the lapel of choice for a man who wants to look broader without padding the shoulders. The effect is real, and it is why the peak lapel is common on double-breasted jackets, where the wider front needs a stronger line to balance it.

The shawl lapel does the opposite of the peak. The continuous curve softens the front of the jacket and makes the chest look narrower, which is why it works for evening wear, where the silhouette is meant to be smooth and the jacket is meant to be quiet. A shawl lapel on a dinner jacket is not a detail. It is the point of the jacket.

Choosing, and what to ask the tailor

For a first suit, choose a notch lapel in a regular width. It is the most versatile shape, it suits the most builds, and it will not look dated in five years. For a second suit, consider a peak lapel, especially if you are narrow-shouldered or if the suit is double-breasted. For a dinner jacket, choose a shawl lapel, because that is what the dinner jacket is for.

When you are with the tailor, ask about the gorge height and the lapel width together, because the two are related. A high gorge with a wide lapel looks aggressive. A low gorge with a slim lapel looks dated. The tailor will know the combination that suits your build.

The lapel is the part of the suit people notice first, after the fit, and it is the part that tells them whether the suit was chosen or bought. A lapel that suits the build looks like it belongs there. A lapel that does not looks like it was borrowed. Choose the one that belongs.

Keep reading

Related guides on this site: the rules for the waistcoat, the third piece where the jacket hem should fall how button stance changes the fit of a jacket More from Landing pages that tailor themselves to every click.

Frequently asked questions

Which lapel should I choose for my first suit?

Notch is the most versatile and the safest choice for a first suit or a business suit. Peak is better if you want to add width to the shoulders or if you are wearing a double-breasted jacket. Shawl is for black tie only.

What angle does a notch lapel make?

The notch lapel meets the collar at a 75 to 90 degree angle, which is why it looks balanced on most builds. A notch that is too narrow looks thin on a broad chest, and a notch that is too wide overwhelms a narrow chest.

Why do peak lapels make shoulders look broader?

Peak lapels point upward toward the shoulders, which draws the eye outward and makes the shoulders look broader. That is why they are common on double-breasted jackets and on suits for men with narrow shoulders.

Can I wear a shawl lapel with a business suit?

No. A shawl lapel is a continuous curve with no notch, and it is associated with formal evening wear. Wearing one with a business suit looks like a mistake, because the shawl signals black tie and the suit signals the office.

How wide should a lapel be?

Slim lapels are 2 to 2.5 inches wide, regular lapels are 2.75 to 3.25 inches, and wide lapels are 3.5 inches or more. The width should match the width of your tie and the proportions of your chest.

What lapel width suits my chest size?

As a guide, a chest under 38 inches suits a slim lapel, 38 to 44 inches suits a regular lapel, and over 44 inches suits a wide lapel. The numbers are a starting point, not a rule, and the tailor's eye matters more than the tape.